Charts & Guides

Identify Your Face Shape

Believe it or not, figuring out the most fabulous style doesn't even begin with your hair- it begins with your face. Being able to identify your face shape is the foundation for great hair. Look over the list of face shapes and choose the one that best describes you.

Once you identify your face shape make sure to make it the foundation of your haircut, hair color and makeup. Use my tips and get your stylist to be creative, while to best keeping in mind what works best for your face shape. (» See Celebrity Hair Styles) Go through my celebrity style analysis to see how the stars work with their face shapes. You'll get some ideas about how to really shine!

The Seven Face Shapes are:

***You can be a combination of these facial shapes.

***Face shapes can change with age and with fluctuations in weight.

Oval:

Significantly longer than wide, and generally considered the ideal face shape. The contour and proportions of the oval face form the basis for modifying all other facial types.

Facial Proportions - One and half times longer than the width across the brow. The forehead is slightly wider than the chin.

Round:

Our goal is to add an illusion of length to this face shape. The use of a diagonal part can help create natural height and diagonal illusion to add length. This asymmetric illusion of sweeping hair across the forehead, down to the opposite side of the part is a great way to give the illusion of length and height. Push the hair on the light side of the part back to increase the diagonal.

Facial Proportions - Round hairline, round chin and width across the face.

Square:

This shape will require the same illusion of length. The use of a diagonal part can help create natural height and a sense of face length. This asymmetry that results from sweeping hair across the forehead, down to the opposite side of the part is a great way to give the appearance of length and height.

Facial Proportions - Straight hair line and square jaw line.

Pear:

You will need to create an illusion of width across the forehead. To do this build a full style with plenty of height and lots of movement. Add a soft airy bang then direct the hair at the side behind the ears to expose the jaw line and neck.

Facial proportions - Narrow forehead and wider jaw and chin.

Oblong:

The goal with an oblong shape is to create a shorter and wider appearance. In order to achieve this, combine bangs and add fullness the sides by directing the hair out and away from the cheeks. Avoid adding height to your style. Shorter chin length styles work nicely.

Facial Proportions - Long and narrow with hollow cheeks.

Diamond:

The aim is to minimize the appearance of width at the cheek bones. Keep the hair tight to head at the cheekbones (tucking it behind your ears is fine). Add swoopy (or diagonal) bangs that stay close to the forehead and keep your hair very full under the jaw line. This will create an oval illusion and minimize the width at the cheeks.

Facial proportions - Widest at cheekbones, narrow forehead and jaw line of approximately equal widths.

Heart:

The goal with this very photogenic face is to silhouette the face shape and expose a beautiful jaw line. This is the only face shape that needs or can use a center part, causing hair to drape down the sides of the forehead. This style minimizes the width and pushes the hair outward, creating fullness to maximize width and add softness to the jaw line.

Facial Proportions - Narrow forehead, wider at the high cheekbones, tapered chin.

The correct way to blow-dry your hair

by David Groshen

Sectioning Diagram

Tools needed:

A wide tooth comb
4 hair clips

Blow-drying by Section

Tools needed:

Blow-dryer with nozzle
Comb or brush
4 hair clips

Be sure to hit the cool button after each subsection to set your hair and lock in your style!

7 Methods Of Hair Color

A guide to help you use them by David Groshen.

Now, Match up your goals as closely as possible with the selections on the top of pages 8-14 to determine the color delivery method that will best suit your needs, always keeping in mind your best color range.

Understanding Hair And The Level System

This is what a strand of hair looks like greatly magnified. The illustration shows degrees of penetration of the seven hair color methods.

Levels are the system of measurement used to define incremental changes in hair color. Blue/Black hair, found mostly in the Far East, is a level 1. Platinum blonde hair is a level 10. Permanent hair color can only consistently lighten your hair 4 levels. For changes greater than 4 levels, highlights, double process, or a combination of permanent color, high-lights or double process may be used.